Part I: Spark Plug Basics

Maintenance and Set Up Tips

Replacing of plugs really should be almost as easy as changing light bulbs, however it's not. Bulb replacement does not involve the use of a socket wrench or gapping utilities. A deep socket that fits a plug isn't a suitable spark plug socket. A plug socket has a couple of things that separate it from a deep socket.

The first is a foam rubber insert that pads the spark plug while it is in the socket. Second is the hexagonal part around the top socket. The hexagonal area provides the wrench to set on the socket if there is insufficient space for the ratchet. Motorcycles usually have plenty of space for ratchets and torque wrenches, but the ability to accommodate a wrench on the socket comes in handy for motorcycles with Fat Bob tanks as well as some automotive applications (like a Corvette with headers).

For several years there have been two standard types of plug sockets. 80" Big Twin Evolution and Shovelhead engines require a 3/4" spark plug socket, and Evo Sportsters and Twin Cams need a 5/8" one. And then something took place: spark plugs that required an 11/16" socket came out on the shelves, and 11/16” spark plug sockets are sometimes hard to find. I've seen people fit a short length of foam pipe wrap (the one used commonly in hot water pipes) inside of an 11/16” deep socket to make their own. This procedure is effective and is also an inexpensive solution to improvise an instrument for the person who doesn't replace a lot of 11/16” spark plugs.

Plug Spacing

Spark plug spacing is crucial for accurate firing. Many people assume plugs are already gapped from the factory, which isn't usually correct. Though even if plugs are already gapped, movement when shipped may make the spacing quite a few thousandths inches shorter. Spacing a spark plug isn't rocket science. All it takes are the appropriate tools, some practice, and a little bit of determination.

For starters, pliers and a feeler gauge are not the right tools. Our preferred gapper is the simple, good-old wire-loop tool where every wire loop stands for a distinct size of the gap, and also the metal tabs support a variety of ground electrodes. Our very least favorite may be the disc which has the ramp around the perimeter. The first issue with the disc style is that it puts strain on the center electrode while gapping. Another problem is that one part of the ground electrode might end up somewhat farther out from the center electrode. Screamin' Edge and SplitFire spark plugs, one prong of the ground electrode can be higher than other plugs.

Focusing on 3 straightforward procedures will allow you to correctly gap plugs. Initially, don't try to bend the center electrode. Second, never bend the ground electrode laterally. Utilize the spacing tool to slowly push the tip of the ground electrode near or farther from the tip of the center electrode. Additionally, check the gap by working out the correct wire loop in between the gap. The spacing is right when you feel a slight amount of friction when the wire moves in the gap.

Changing Spark Plugs

Just before the removal of a plug, wait until the engine has cooled down, and then start using a shot of compressed air to clear out dust and dirt away from the space around the spark plug. A ratchet and a spark plug socket are my desired utilities for this section of the process. Upon cautiously taking off the spark plug wire by pulling on the boot, not the wire, I remove the aged plug with a ratchet and plug socket by turning them counter-clockwise.

When the worn out plugs are finally out, it is time to mount the correctly spaced plugs. Start out by putting a tiny amount of lubricant on the threads for each plug. Current Harleys have aluminum heads and spark plugs have a steel shell. Repeated heating and cooling of the cylinder heads may cause a chemical reaction from the steel spark plug shell and the aluminum cylinder head. This results in an effect like it has been welded.

Soon after applying the lubricant oil around the spark plug threads, begin winding the spark plug clockwise into the head working it with your fingers rather than a ratchet and plug socket. A best practice that lowers the possibility of getting a cross threaded plug and the costly damages that may occur.
After the brand new spark plug is finger-tight, reach for the torque wrench and spark plug socket. The torque spec for spark plugs in a TC 88 is 11-18 ft-lbs., so split the difference and go for 15 ft-lbs.

By doing this, if the torque wrench turns out to be off with no reason in mind, you will still be within the recommended spec. Is the right torque critical for spark plug installation? Typically, indeed yes! If the spark plug is too loose, heat exchange to the head may be reduced, while the plug may overheat. If a spark plug remains not tight enough, it possibly can work its way out from the head due to vibration and combustion pressure. And that is very harmful. Insufficiently tightened spark plugs are also held responsible for combustion chamber debris finding their way into the threads of the spark plug hole.

On the other part, turning plugs too tight can cause other problems. If a spark plug is tightened too much, the chances are it'll be harder to take out. Over tightening may also crush the gasket on the gasket seat plug. Over tightening can harm the threads in the head and has been the suspect in the gap distorting.

Without having a torque wrench, get the fresh plug tightened using the finger and utilize a ratchet to carefully tighten the plug another quarter to half a turn. This approach is certainly a lot less accurate as compared to utilizing a torque wrench, but it can get you somewhere in the 11-18 ft-lbs. limit.

This season, bike runs are going to kick off all throughout the US. The vast majority of motorcyclists will undoubtedly be congregate for one week long festivity all expressing their love for bikes. You will hear a number of stories and building tips to chat about with brand new friends while you ride the time in the rally. Be sure to ride safe and put on the necessary safety equipment like carbon fiber helmets. Best of luck and have a wonderful ride.

An Easy Method to Fine-tune A Primary Chain

The design of a Big Twin's Powertrain is non-unitized. Specifically, the gear box is mounted apart from the engine, meaning the two should work side by side in order to pass power. This is where the primary drive, inside that huge aluminum case next to the biker's left boot, takes into action.

From the name itself, the main drive passes power from your engine to, ultimately, the backend wheel. The reciprocating power that’s provided by the engine’s crankshaft is transformed into rotating power through the running major chain and sprockets that spin the transmission’s input shaft. Once the energy regroups within the transmission it’s spread from the gears and into the supplementary drive, which is the chain or belt drive that turns the bike's rear end tire. This is a brief description of a Harley powertrain, and, basically, each part takes on an integral part in moving you and the bike around the highway.

Being that the powertrain is made up of a group of moving components, you’re going to have to carry out regular adjustments to them so they will work properly. In time, moving parts, just like the main drive’s sprockets and chain, degrade. As things wear, they need adjustment to help maintain correct tolerance. And it’s the main driver’s multi-row roller chain that must be looked over and fine-tuned once in a while. It’s a fairly easy procedure, at the same time, a method that you can do in your own garage or shop.

Many of the action comes about around the inspection window that is reached by taking out the plate secured on by four screws. You will need to have a ruler to make the sizing and a set of essential tools to perform the adjustments. To adjust, release the adjusting shoe’s 9/16” bolt a few turns and rotate the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or downwards to loosen.

A good time to examine and adjust the main chain takes place when you have to drain and replace the primary case oil. Harley Davidson suggests its versatile synthetic oil, however, if you already have a desired brand that’s been produced for the primary drive, by all means, use it. Just make sure no matter what oil you decide is designed for this function.

When you have removed the inspection plate, you've got a good view of the chain’s components related to it, so makes use of the time to check them for wear. Look at the chain’s rollers to find out if they are receiving total lubrication, and check the adjuster shoe for breaks and such. Inspecting and fine-tuning the main chain is quick and easy, when you’re finished you can have one thing of the checklist of things to do on your next drive. Remember to replace the inspection plate gasket.

Things You'll Need:

Pipe sealant
Drain pan
T27 Torx
T40 Torx
9/16” deep socket
Ratchet
Ratchet extension
Ruler

1. Basic care such as fine-tuning the primary chain can be executed in your own garage or shop when it’s time to change the primary oil. Be sure the motorcycle is fixed in an upright stance once you begin.

2. The first thing to do is usually to drain the main case of its used fluid. After placing a drain pan beneath the primary, work with a T40 Torx to take out the drain plug which is positioned just beneath the derby cover.

3. Leave the used primary fluid to drain into the pan. While it drains, you can easily inspect the main chain to find out if it needs tuning.

4. Use a T27 Torx socket to get rid of the 4 bolts that hold the primary inspection plate in position. It’s smart to change the inspection plate gasket before you install the plate.

5. While the inspection plate is removed, you can examine the chain’s rollers for signs of wear. Try inspecting them for hints of damage. With the transmission in neutral, spin the engine a little bit several times so you can see the whole chain.

6. While checking several places in measuring the chain, always note doen two readings. First is with the chain’s top run at slack. Second, the ruler is raised from the top run to remove the slack and to measure once again. The main difference within the 2 at the chain’s tightest point is definitely the chain’s slack.

7. Work with a 9/16” deep socket to fine tune the chain’s free play. With the chain cold, fix the free play between ½” and 7/8”. After you have tightened the nut again, measure the slack again to ensure that you have established the proper amount.

8. Since the inspection plate is open, additionally check out the adjuster shoe that is pushing against the chain’s under run. On the upper right corner, you'll find the adjustment nut.

9. Not like the motor and transmission drain plugs, there’s no O-ring on the primary case drain plug. To aid in sealing it, rub a little pipe sealant along the base of the bolt.

10. Soon after you're done clearing off the oil from the main cover, re-install the main case drain plug. When already set, carefully twist the inspection plate's bolts as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.

11. You can now fill up the primary case with clean fluid. Many mechanics use lubes from the big barrel rather than retailed canisters.

12. Fill in 32 oz . of fluid. Add the right amount for your year and model bike.

This year, bike runs are set to kick off from various states. A multitude of bikers will be congregating for one week of celebration all expressing their fascination with motorcycles. There will be a lot of stories and building tricks to recommend with brand new mates while you ride the days the time in
while in the bike runs. Ensure that you drive safe and slip on the necessary safety equipment like carbon fiber helmets. Good luck and have a fantastic run.

Restoring a World War II Bike Relic

So many wonderful stories have been told over the decades, chronicling the elusive “barn find” appears impossible that any more could exist. Time has shown us a lot of lessons and none are prevalent than the fact that old stories are retold. Certainly, given plenty of time, it's possible, but the story around this ‘42 Harley-Davidson WLC seems to be a one time episode. A genuine barn find makes for a great tale, but a Second World War Harley adorned in Honda parts and stashed inside a barn in a rural region in England? Well that would be an interesting story. 

Custom builder Nick Gale said, “I found it whilst visiting a relative A decade ago. I got to talk to a local farmer whilst strolling my dog one night and he mentioned he has an oldtime motorbike his father had purchased in 1945 from a soldier at the conclusion of World War II. The farmer told me he knows it was a Harley Davidson, and I could buy it if I wanted to. The motorcycle had stayed in his barn from 1945 until 1981 he made a decision to make use of it and get it running.”

Looking over the bike, it had 18-inch front and rear wheels from Honda, a vintage Honda gas tank, Honda fenders, a Suzuki headlight, handlebars from an lronhead Sportster, a hand clutch, and a bigVincent sprung saddle. The farmer had painted the entire motorcycle yellow, as well as all the nuts and bolts. Nick goes on to say that the bike had a long-expired UK registration and after checking the engine, forks, and frame ensuring they were complete, he made the deal for about $1,200.

Nick adds, “When I got it back home, I got the motorcycle working and was thrilled to see there were no crackling sounds, no smoke, and like every '42s, once on the streets, there are no breaks.”

To prep the Harley Davidson for its resurrection, it was stripped down to the basics. New 16-inch tires were purchased to exchange the Honda tires and the very first snafu was encountered. Running the front rim with the springer forks was pretty simple, but the farmer had heated and bentthe back of the WLC's body to make room for the Honda wheel to fit. With most of his friends telling him its junk, Nick opted to keep up the classic frame and just get a little creative with the rest of the bike.

Nick adds, "The drop seat concept happened when we cut the back off. We used most of the original pipe work and chose to form the backbone too. And the frame was created. The hardest part  was having the seat plunger to enable us to use a new seat reduced by  a few inches from stock. It required 4 hours with a hammer to get rid of the existing seat post that was welded in." From  this point the tale goes stagnant. After acquiring the motorcycle in 2001 and getting the bodyremolded, "biker wants" have prevailed and the old Harley Davidson was boxed up and shelved for yet another day. That day didn't come for the next decade. In early 2011 the bins were made available and readied for restoration yet again.

Opening the 45-inch motor uncovered another amazing discovery. To Nick's enjoyment, the interiorwas like new and with the crank split, the World War II oil spilled out. Checking closely unveiledcompletely unmarked interiors with matching numbers. After putting the complete stock 750 cc flathead together again, the Amal carburetor was refurbished and topped with a brass velocity stack. engine received brass accents over fresh paint job and all oil and fuel lines were created with manually bent copper tubing. The bike came with a worn out and dirty clamshell exhaust. To cover up decades of punishment, the pipes were wrapped to disguise the blemishes and a bend enablesthe pipe to boast a little for more style.

Nick said, “The gears are modified by a smaller sized shifter we produced which still runs the mouse trap clutch. All braking systems and clutch systems are authentic as are all the switch gear, levers, and cables. All the parts were acquired as original or refurbished stock wich would likely be very close as Harley Davidson would've done 70 years ago. The motorcycle ignites on the first or second kick and even the hill brake is working, well, sort of.”

Bodywork was not overdone and carries a classic overall look, but that is where resemblances stop.  The back fender began life as a winning piece that was modified with a customized set of struts and backed with a back light. Adding some across-the-pond design, the registration tag is meant to seem like a 1940s English pub sign. What would you expect from any English motorcycle builder? Peeking deep into the gas tank, it becomes clear work was done.

Nick designed and made the unit into two parts that interlock just as the original but with added style and a bend more in line with the framework changes. The seat rocks off from the framebrackets to a spring inside the old seat post tube. All the rest of the components are genuine '42 Harley WLC or new old stock. A classic black paint was applied to all the exposed metals with gold highlights painstakingly painted by hand. One last thing is a vintage motorcycle helmet to completethe WW II look of the bike.

Just in two days of its 6 week transformation, the '42 WLC was exhibited at the South of England Rally and came home with its very first award as winner of the Best Professional Category. Two weeks later it made an appearance and won Best Classic at the annual Bulldog Custom Show. After sitting in boxes for A decade, Nick clearly understood that if he didn’t took time to work with the Harley Davidson, it would be subject to another 10 years of sitting there. It started from an ordinary project into a labor of love. Nick concludes, "It's fun to drive a bike once you get used to it. I, for one, love it to death."